Grand Seiko Elegance automatic GMT "25th Anniversary" blue dial stainless steel bracelet 39,5 mm

The story

The 1988 launch of the calibre 9S marked the beginning of a new era for Grand Seiko's mechanical watchmaking. A new movement, the caliber 9S was designed entirely in-house to deliver the level of precision and durability for which Grand Seiko was already renowned. It has become the platform on which all Grand Seiko mechanical watches are built, leading to the creation of a complete series of movements with different functions, escapements and complex mechanisms. These include the revolutionary caliber 9SA5 with its double-pulse escapement, and Grand Seiko's first mechanical chronograph, the Tentagraph. Not to mention GMT watches, available in a wide selection of models, including several timepieces equipped with Hi-Beat movements.

To celebrate the 25th anniversary of the 9S mechanical caliber, Grand Seiko is launching a new GMT watch in its Elegance collection, inspired by the sky overlooking Mount Iwate in the prefecture of the same name, where all Grand Seiko mechanical watches are hand-assembled by our skilled craftsmen.

An anniversary model

This new SBGM253 features the steel case of the Elegance collection, 39.5 mm in diameter and 13.7 mm thick. Its design is classic, thanks to the mirrored surfaces of the bezel and case, slightly curved lugs with a distortion-free mirror finish, achieved through the Zaratsu polishing, a signature of the Japanese Maison. The whole is topped by a "box-shaped" sapphire crystal.

Its sunray dial is inspired by the view of Mount Iwate, near the Shizukuishi watchmaking workshop, where Grand Seiko mechanical watches are made. The blue color of the dial represents the middle of the sky or "中天= Chūten" - the sky that can be seen looking even higher from the mountain top. The theme of the "nature of time" plays a key role in Grand Seiko's watchmaking creations - a Japanese spirituality where each moment is a unique expression revealed by light and shadow. The watchmakers' pride in their environment is reflected in the design of watch movements that mimic the fluid movement of time as it passes, as well as in the creation of dials that reflect the beauty of Japanese nature.

Finally, the blue 24-hour scale printed on the pale blue dial displays the second time zone, ensuring subtlety and legibility for this anniversary edition. The GMT hand and GMT and GS logos provide a subtle contrast. A real success for the brand!

Mechanical side

Grand Seiko has chosen to equip this limited-edition watch with a Manufacture caliber 9S66. This is one of Grand Seiko's most emblematic movements. Featuring a true GMT complication, the local time hand can be set independently of the GMT hand. The wearer can then simply move the hour hand forward or backward in one-hour increments to the appropriate time without having to reset the watch. Like all Grand Seiko mechanical movements, the 9S66 is produced by the watchmakers at the Shizukuishi Watch Studio. It offers a 72-hour power reserve, and this automatic movement has a precision of -3 to +5 seconds per day, thanks to its balance oscillating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. Chronometry standards superior to the COSC!

Finally, this timeless model has a classic profile, but the transparent caseback reveals the resolutely modern 9S66 GMT movement, equipped with a titanium oscillating weight featuring Grand Seiko's signature blue color, achieved through the same anodic oxidation process as the first version.