Rolex Datejust 36 ref. 16238 Automatic yellow gold 36 mm circa 1990

A brief history:

Introduced in 1945, the Datejust is one of the most iconic pillars of the Rolex catalog and the first self-winding wristwatch to display the date in a window at 3 o'clock. Since then, it has established itself as the absolute standard for elegant, functional dress watches, instantly recognizable thanks to its fluted bezel, waterproof Oyster case, and Jubilee or Oyster bracelet.

The reference 16238 belongs to a particularly important generation in the history of the model: the 5-digit Datejust, and more specifically the second series (162xx) launched in 1988 (discontinued in 2005). This iteration marks a discreet but decisive modernization of the collection. It adopts a sapphire crystal, much more resistant than the previous plexiglass, while retaining the classic proportions of the 36 mm Datejust—thin brushed lugs, elegant case middle, and perfect visual balance. The automatic caliber 3135, introduced with this generation, replaced the 3035 and provided a more robust construction with a transverse bridge for the balance wheel. Also noteworthy: the first models still had perforated cases (with visible lug holes), which were replaced in the 1990s by “no-hole” cases with more refined sides.

Today, the 16238 is considered by connoisseurs to be a wonderful balance between tradition and modernity: it retains all the aura of the vintage Datejust while offering the technical and aesthetic advantages of a more contemporary watch. Rightfully coveted on the second-hand market, it embodies the very essence of the Datejust in solid gold — an elegant, high-performance, timeless timepiece.

The model

The model presented here is a Rolex Datejust ref. 16238 in an elegant and precious configuration. Its sunburst blue dial, with its rare intensity, captures the light with deep and changing reflections, while revealing a delicate and uniform patina. This natural aging gives it a unique character that only the passage of time can offer. The “T SWISS MADE T” markings at six o'clock confirm the presence of the original tritium, giving the watch a perfectly balanced vintage aesthetic.

The watch is mounted on a Super Jubilee bracelet, whose polished center links contrast with the satin-finished outer links. This bracelet, which is particularly supple and comfortable to wear, is completed by an “Oysterclaps” clasp.

With its perfectly proportioned 36 mm case, iconic fluted bezel and 3135 caliber, this Rolex Datejust 16238 is much more than a gold watch: it is a timeless symbol, in an execution as precious as it is desirable.

A misunderstood rarity... at the time

What makes the Datejust 16238 so sought-after today is precisely what held back its popularity when it was first released: its price point, which was too close to that of the Day-Date. In the late 1980s and 1990s, buying a solid gold Datejust cost almost as much as a Day-Date — which also offered the day display in full letters, Rolex's ultimate signature.

As a result, this full gold configuration attracted few buyers when it was released. Customers looking for nobility opted for the Day-Date, while Datejust enthusiasts preferred the more accessible steel or Rolesor models. The 16238 was therefore born rare... and has remained so.

But that's not all. The 16238 is also the penultimate Datejust reference produced entirely in solid yellow gold, just before the 116238. Since then, Rolex has removed this configuration from its catalog, now reserving “full gold” configurations for the Day-Date and two-tone models. It therefore embodies the end of an era: when the Datejust could still express itself in all the splendor of solid gold.

What's more, its understated elegance, perfectly contemporary size (36 mm), and absolute versatility appeal to a new generation of collectors who appreciate the discreet refinement of a yellow gold case without any excess.

The package

This Rolex Datejust 16238 from 1990 is in excellent condition and comes without its original box or papers, but has been carefully checked in our workshops to ensure its authenticity and proper functioning. It is covered by our 1-year Lepage Vintage warranty.

A dress watch, a characterful watch, a discreet collector's item: the 16238 is all of these things at once. And it is ready to start a new chapter on your wrist.